Day 6 - The three of us at the top of a long climb en route to the village of Braga, at 3,450 meters
After Rajasthan we were en route to the border of India and Nepal. The border town was dirty and danky, as is expected, but it was a painless 15 minute process to cross the border. We decided to stop first in Lumbini, the Buddha's birthplace. Upon crossing the border, I felt like Nepal was a more relaxed and less "in-your-face" counrty than India, but also was lacking something that I couldnt quite place... Anyways, Lumbini was a rather run-down uncomfortable town so the beautiful Buddhist temples did little to change my impression. I was anxious to get to Pokhara, the second largest city in Nepal, and have a nice place to stay and some good food. We finally got to Pokhara and spent a few days resting up for the trek and getting all the supplies we need. I needed to get so much stuff: a sleeping bad, hiking boots, gloves, hat, fleece pants, fleece top, hat, sunglasses... it was a huge shopping spree that I reluctantly forced myself to do. The bargaining for all that was such a headache, we were all so anxious to get out of the city and into the mountains. Aftering getting our trekking permit we started off on this adventure, with our 6 to 8 kilo bags on our backs. We knew we would have to carry whatever we had on us, so we were very selective; only the basics. I had no time to realize what we were about to do...
Day 5 - The Tibetan tablets are found at amazing viewpoints showing the dedication of the believers who carried them to such high elevations.
Annapurna was an amazing experience in all respects. Theres no way to describe the freedom and exhiliration of carrying all your belongings on your back and heading on foot day by day to unknown destinations surrounded with incredible natural beauty and enough guesthouses to be comfortable at night. The overall trip would take 20 days, we would walk 211 km, and climb from about 800 meters to 5,416 meters and down. The summit of the trek was called Throng La Pass at 5,416 meters, which we reached at Day 11.
The landscape changed from lush green fields and rice terraces, to barren rocky mountain ranges, all the while the view of the ice covered Himilayas looming in the background. The air was so clean and clear that despite the difficulty breathing from 3500 meters and up, I have never felt so healthy and fresh in my life. The food all the while was mostly Nepali Daal Bhat, which consists of lentils, vegetable curry, and rice. It was hearty and delicious and I never tired of it. There was also lots of Tibetan food since the Tibetan influence was extremely strong during the entire trek. Buddhist prayer wheels and Tibetan flags were found even at the most remote locations. We stayed in a different town every night of the trek except for two, Manang and Muktinath. We needed days to acclimitize to the altitude. Each town had its own special feel and I easily could have lingered at most of them for a few days...
Day 11 - At the Throng La Pass at 5,416 meters, after a 6 hour, 1200 meter climb!
Day 1 – Besisahar to Ngadi -13km walk, Elevation: 890m
Day 2 – To Chamche – 20 km walk, Elevation: 1385m
Day 3 – To Dharapani – 6 km walk, Elevation: 1900m
Day 4 – To Chame – 26 km walk, Elevation: 2710m
Day 5 – To
Day 6 – To
Day 7 – To Manang – 2 km walk, Elevation: 3540m
Day 8 – Stay Manang– Climb 200m and back for acclimatization
Day 9 – To Letdar – 10 km walk, Elevation: 4200m
Day 10 – To Throng Phedi – 5 km walk, Elevation: 4450m
Day 11 – SUMMIT AT 5400 Meters Throng La Pass, ending at the Holy City of Muktinath – Total of 16 km walk, 1,000 meter climb and 1,200 meter decent, ending at Elevation: 3800m
Day 12 – Stay Muktinath–Elevation: 3800 m
Day 13 – To Kagbeni – 10 km walk, Elevation: 2800m
Day 14 – To Marpha – 15 km walk, Elevation: 2670m
Day 15 – To Lete – 17 km walk, Elevation: 2535m
Day 16 – To Tatopani – 20 km walk, Elevation: 1200m
Day 17 – Stay Tatopani, Elevation 1200 m
Day 18 – To Ghorapani – 12km, Elevation: 2870m
Day 19 – To Tikhedhunga – 7 km walk, Elevation 1500m
Day 20 – To Nayhpal – 7km walk, Elevation: 900m, Bus to Pokhara
April 28th, return to Pokhara after trekking 211 km and climbing up to 5400m and back!
On Day 17, Ana and Jesse decided to go back on a jeep to Pokhara but I decided I wanted to extend the trek; I had not seen enough of Nepal and I wanted to take my time. Some great people we met along the way were also continuing the trek so I joined them!
When I got back to Pokhara solo I took a few days to just relax, get some food I had not been able to for so long, and just rest. It was hard at times to force myself to do much of anything without someone else there, but I ended up paragliding over the Pokhara Lake which was amazing, and signing up for a rafting trip along the Seti river, which took me south and ended at the Royal Chitwan National Park. I met Dorothy & Isa from Germany and Frank from China (clearly that was not his real name!) on the overnight rafting trip. There was a terrible rainstorm the night we camped by the river and luckily all but my tent was consumed by the wind! Then the four of us went together to Chitwan National Park to go elephant riding and jungle walking... When we arrived we found out we could wash with the elephants, so we jumped into the river and on the back of the elephant as they splashed us with water from their trunks... I felt like I was 7 years old. At Chitwan we also met Ariel, a great guy from Israel who joined in the festivities with us.
Dorothy, Me & Frank getting splashed by the Elephants at Chitwan National Park
After a few days I set off to explore the Kathmandu Valley with the promise of mountain views and serenity. I went to the ancient Newar town of Bhaktapur, with impressive temples, architecture and markets. Then another bus ride took me to Nagarkot, at 2200m, a peaceful village with great views. There I met a young American girl and her guide who were really cool and I spent the evening on a rooftop with them, playing cards and discussing life. She also introduced me to Beddies, Indian cigarettes that were the first type of cigarettes that I actually enjoyed the smell... I was sure to get some when I returned to India! The best part was that the next day they were trekking to a famous temple, Changu Narayan Temple, which is a Vishnu temple and one of the oldest in the Valley, and I tagged along. After a 4 hour trek, the temple was a beautiful sight! That temple is still in my mind as one of the most intricate and spectacular temples Id seen yet. Then, another fortunate event, they offered me a taxi ride to my next destination. I was heading to Boudha, a well developed Tibetan village nearby, where Dorothy had mentioned she would be! I got dropped off a 1/4 mile before the towns main gate because the road was blocked for some reason, and as it turned out, it was because of a huge procession in honor of Buddha's Birthday, which now Ill never forget is May 9th! Imagine randomly showing up at a Buddhist haven on Buddha's birthday...what are the chances!!
Me in front of the Boudha Stupa on Buddha's Birthday surrounded by worshipers from all over Nepal!
The town was swarmed with Tibetan locals, monks and tourists! The huge stupa at the center of the town was surrounded by worshipers who circled the stupa while spinning the prayer wheels which lined its lower rim. I felt like I walked into a dream. The town was very modern and well developed since it was a ENSCO World Heritage site. Then yet again, luckily, I spotted Dorothy in the crowds and I was able to stay with her and meet some friends she had made there. My time in Boudha was truly a special experience that I will never forget.
After a few days though, I had to return to Kathmandu city and get ready to go back to India, before my Visa ran out. With a heavy heart I booked my bus ride back to the Indian border, but in a way I was anxious to get back to what felt was my home away from home. As peaceful and serene as Nepal was, I never felt a part of it the way I did in India, and I was excited to go back.
